Ashgabat, the capital of Turkmenistan, looks like a strange place. Pristine white structures tower over four-lane motorways, while marble walls, teal windows and golden roofs glisten under the desert sun. It’s striking, I’ll admit, the architecture not to my taste but beautiful in a rather decadent sense. What is strangest about Ashgabat, however, looking on from afar (visas to Turkmenistan are notoriously difficult to obtain) is the sheer lack of people that seem to live there. They do – the city’s population is nearly one million – and yet in every photo Ashgabat looks abandoned. Weirder still, it looks like it was designed to be this way.
In a sense, it was. Since the fall of the Soviet Union, the Turkmen government has been on a “beautification campaign”, rebuilding the country in their own vision. The leaders of the new, (semi-)autonomous state of Turkmenistan have been incredibly popular, typically winning 100 per cent of the vote, but stratospheric popularity (or, just maybe, the ability to rig a referendum and develop a total cult of personality that is well-worth reading about in its own right) is not all Turkmen presidents have been renowned for.
Because this lot bloody love a Guinness World Record.

Monumen Arch of Independence in sunset. Ashkhabat, Turkmenistan.
2013 saw what is likely the nation’s most famous Guinness World Record, as Ashgabat was recognised for the “highest concentration of white marble buildings in the world” – 543 in a 4.5 square mile radius. The country was also awarded the prize for the largest indoor ferris wheel in the world. Standing at over 47 metres, it cost a reported £57 million to build.
More recently, niche awards include: “record number of cyclists cycling in a straight line” (2,019 of them cycled 3,300 metres), “the world’s first plant for the production of gasoline from natural gas”, and “largest lesson of ecology”. Turkmenistan also holds the record for most people singing in the round, when a choir of some 4,166 gathered to sing ‘Forward Only Forward, My Dear Country Turkmenistan’.

Ashgabat International Airport, which reportedly sees 10 per cent of its footfall capacity.

Gurbanguly Berdymukhamedov (Photo by Sean Gallup/Getty Images)
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This new strategy came in the early 2000s, with physical book sales declining and consumers shifting to the internet for their information – particularly for quirky, fun, trivial information that the Guinness World Records specialise in. It is also a product of there being a finite number of interesting records, and many of them going in the early days. Yet instead of fine-tuning what they do well and taking this product online, Guinness World Records have widened their lens, became short-sighted, and have lost authority as a result. Turkmenistan is just a more expensive, extreme and sadly more corrupt example of what is happening across the board. The childhood excitement and admiration of the Guinness World Records is gone. Chances are, it won’t come back.
