Hadrian’s wall, like so many Roman ruins, is grey. Slicing through England, from Wallsend in the east to Bowness-on-Solway in the west, the wall is now nothing more than grey stone stacked upon grey stone, punctuated at intervals by forts built out of grey stone – and all standing beneath an often grey sky. At least, that’s how we like to picture Hadrian’s wall: no doubt the sun shines there as often as not, but we indulge in the image of moody, blustery skies above the craggy landscape and its grey ruins. And that’s almost how it looked when I visited last week. I say ‘almost’ because, sitting on the peak of the hill at Housestead’s fort, where an impressive north gate once stood, there was a huge scaffolded structure, plastered with brightly coloured placards bearing words, slogans, and loud, geometric patterns. This was not the moody vision of Hadrian’s wall that I was expecting. The installation, ‘The Future Belongs to What Was As Much As What Is’ by contemporary artist Morag Myerscough, was commissioned by English Heritage and unveiled on Saturday to mark the 1,900th anniversary of the wall. Myerscough, who is known for her bold, Memphis-style designs, anticipated the possibility that her installation might not be to everybody’s taste. As she commented in an interview with the Guardian: ‘It’s not whether people like something, or they don’t like something … if they start talking about it then that is very exciting. It’s about being surprised by something’. Myerscough was right to predict mixed responses, but not necessarily for the reason she thinks. No, it’s not the bright colour that I mind, because although it does jar with the grey aspect, I like the intentionality: Myerscough deliberately created a bright installation to connect past and present by reminding us that Romans themselves loved a bit of colour. Their monumental buildings were not, as we often think, white (or grey) and austere, but adorned with paint and hung with colourful drapery.

Taken by Mae on her smartphone. Unlike the top image, this one hasn’t been edited and has no filter.
What is more, I can’t help but feel that divorcing words from their context to hang, like baubles, on the festival scaffold captures the most reductive impulses of contemporary society. These little placards have none of the revolutionary zeal of protest signs, and they don’t speak to history: they’re caught in the bubble of the present, where words have become images, like stylish little instagram blocks, no longer signifying anything beyond themselves.
Our craze for motivational or uplifting words and phrases like ‘Hope’ or ‘Everlasting and Strong’, isn’t only unchallenging, it also robs words of their political or transcendent power. What could have been a bridge between past and present is more like the vallum, or ditch, dug around Hadrian’s wall to entrench a divide. Perhaps if she’d looked a little closer at the language of our Roman ancestors, Myerscough might have learned from the Latin phrase acta, non verba: actions, not words.
1 Comment
An excellent piece of journalism, recognising yet dismissing (quite rightly), the ‘other’ point of view. Speaking as one who was shocked at the presence of the millstone paving slabs on other parts of the Pennine Way, I would have been horrified to meet this misplaced monstrocity, and raced off back towards to the tranquillity of nearby Wark Forest.